CRAFT PROFILE: Soap Making

When asked to define elegance, Cecil Beaton replied “Soap and water!”. But, behind this synonymous duo, lies a rather exciting, if somewhat intimidating chemical process. Essentially, soap is a blend of alkaline lye and acidic fat. By itself, lye (aka caustic soda) is pretty nasty stuff; mixed with the right quantity of natural oils it creates moisturising glycerin which remains in the soap to soften the skin.

History

Romans are generally credited as the first makers of soap (they missed that one out in Life of Brian), but the English industry was kick-started in the 17th Century when soap makers were given ‘special privileges’ by King James I. Soaps at this time were made using caustic alkalis – harsh and unpleasant. In the 18th century, Nicholas Le Blanc worked out a process for making caustic soda which has formed the base of soap making to this day.

The Experts

Although the underlying process remains the same, the creativity in this craft lies in the variety of perfumes, colours and garnishes that can be added to create such different effects.

Emma Heywood developed her Keat’s inspired business, Eve of St Agnes after making lip balms with herbs from her garden. She soon discovered the wealth of natural ingredients and wide range of products she could make herself. “I bought a book on how to make handmade soap and quickly became addicted. I loved the idea of starting with some plain looking oils and finishing up with a wonderful bar of soap. The attraction for me was that you can add so many natural additives such as flower petals, herbs, coloured clays, powders and essential oils.”

Maychang and Patchouli Natural Hand Made Soap

Lavender & Lime Natural Hand Made Soap

Judith Fletcher of Saffron Barr started making soap when she was suffering from eczema after the birth of her 3rd daughter. She found it made a huge difference to her skin and “before long there was soap drying all around the house and I was hooked. It's like baking without the calories!"

Honey Bee Soap by Saffron Barr

Geranium and Calendula Natural Soap by Saffron Barr

The shea butter soaps from Norwich based Soapychica are moulded into beautiful and intricate shapes. Inspired by Victorian and Edwardian themes, their exquisite soaps are little works of art in their own right.

Lavender and Amber Daisy Soap by Soapychica

Angel Wings, Fairy Queen and Enchanted Hearth Soap by Soapychica

With cocktail themed scents and burlesque inspired packaging, BarSoap declare themselves “indulgent skincare for the decadent”. Joint owner Dan explains what first drew them to the business: “Kate and I were inspired by watching the Apprentice where they made their own soaps, we goaded one another into it. That said, there's an enormous satisfaction in seeing all your research and hard work about oils and additives in a unique brand." Their tongue-in-cheek burlesque theme was the brainchild of Kate: “it seemed like a dandyish way of adding a little class to bars of soap, essentially, namecheck a bawdy night out. The cocktails themselves automatically put people in mind of scents” but they admit, ”it's a fine line to dance between the boozy connotations and the high quality ingredients the soaps actually contain!”

Gin & Tonic Soap Chunk by BarSoap

Mojito Lime Soap Chunk by BarSoap

Method

The most common method for bar soap is ‘cold process’. Lye is added to water, oils are melted together and the two are combined. Scents and colours are introduced and the mixture is placed into moulds and left for 3 to 5 days. Once removed from the mould, the soap sits for 4 to 6 weeks to 'cure', allowing the acid and alkali to neutralise one another.

The traditional way to test if soap has cured is with the tongue. Biting or tingling: not good. A simple soapy taste: the soap is ready.

It’s a simple process – but be careful, the measurements must be precise. Make sure you are using a good 'recipe' from a reliable website or soap making book. Purchasing 'melt and pour' soap takes out the risky elements – essentially, the soap is pre-made, all the maker has left to do is melt and add colours and fragrance.

But personally, I prefer the chemistry – who doesn’t love an excuse to wear goggles!

Tools and Materials

The basic materials you need are easily available in household stores, but there are plenty of soap making websites that provide a wide range, and kits are available.

Featured crafters

• Eve of St Agnes
• Saffron Barr 
• Soapcyhica
• BarSoap